Trans-formation
In Montgomery County, Maryland–one of the suburban jurisdictions bordering DC–a ban on trans fats in restaurants took effect this week, at the start of the new year. The most rational explanation I’ve read of what trans fats are, and why they should be avoided, is Michael Chu’s writeup, mostly about fats and heart disease, on his site Cooking for Engineers. The quote that stands out most–and I wish he had a citation for this; he has citations for many other points the article makes–is this:
In addition, trans fats have been found to replace necessary saturated fats in fat cells resulting in an unusable substance taking the place where a fuel and nutrient source should have been. This leads to the body increasing capacity of fat cells in order to maintain fuel and nutrient storage levels.
The Post has an article that details the preparations Montgomery County restaurants have taken to prepare. I hadn’t given much thought to the ban itself, but what struck me reading the article is how pervasive industrial pre-prepared foods are in restaurants. Apparently, pancakes and pretty much any baked good comes from a trans-fat laden mix. And the Tastee Diner’s cheesecake was from Sara Lee.
When buying food for home, I read labels and generally try to avoid processed foods, but in restaurants I generally gloss over all that. Partly, of course, because it’s really difficult to figure out what goes into restaurant food. I suppose I make a big mistake if I assume restaurants approach food in the same way that I do at home. I suppose it’s naive to have thought that restaurant corned beef hash could have come from anywhere but a can, but still, I find it a bit disheartening to learn that the cheesecake came from some factory far away.
3 comments
I wonder if this rule, and laws like it will be a boon for the producers of lard, or if the restaurants will let the texture achieved by shortening products fall by the wayside, and the consumers will have to learn to live with less moist foods.
The market for naturally fully saturated palm and coconut oils will probably increase, but I think the food chemists will also work harder to fully hydrogenate oils. I believe Crisco now contains mostly fully-hydrogenated cottonseed oil, instead of mostly partially-hydrogenated cottonseed oil.
I’d like to see more lard usage, although presently I don’t cook with it because the stores I shop at most don’t carry it. Lard has such negative connotations and I think Americans in general would rather trust some other industrial food processing, like full hydrogenation, than switch to lard.
Is there a big texture difference in foods made with saturated fats compared to trans-fats?
I’ve been hearing more and more about palm oil, which remains semi-solid at room temperature, as a major replacement for the trans fats. Sure enough, we recently bought a box of cookies from Trader Joe’s, who voluntarily purged their wares of trans fats a few years ago and it had palm oil in the ingredients. It’s all making me realize I should just steer clear of processed foods entirely, however tasty they may be. Here’s a recent link from Greenpeace: http://www.greenpeace.org/international/press/reports/cooking-the-climate-full
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